250 miles south of the Arctic Circle, Yellowknife isn’t just a place, it’s an experience. It is a city of about 20,000 with many small surrounding rural and remote communities, some of which can only be reached by plane. Dayle, our gracious host, showed us the sights in her large new 4x4 Dodge Pickup Truck. We rode along, chatting away in the comfortable heated can. We visitors became very quiet when we started driving across the lake on the “ice-road” that she assured us was